Strolling through Izmir.

Returning from Izmir, we found Malatya a winter wonderland.  All surrounding mountains and every apricot orchard in sight were caked with snow.  Initially I was excited at the thought of sitting in my apartment gazing at the frosted landscape while listening to Christmas music and sipping the Starbucks Christmas Blend I had just purchased in Izmir.  Sadly, this charming thought was soon dampened by the realization that Malatya fails to salt its icy roads.  Now every bus journey and walk to and from school has become a dangerous ordeal.  The snow may be beautiful, but I would much rather be back walking the streets of Izmir.

Because we were in Izmir for a wedding, there was little time to explore the sights of the city.  In any other historical town, this may have been problematic.  However, in 1922 a coastal town by the name of Smyrna was completely burned during the Turkish War of Independence, destroying most of its antiquities.  Shortly thereafter, the city was reconstructed, renamed Izmir, and today stands as Turkey’s third largest and arguably the most modern city.  Therefore, the time crunch was not a problem. Izmir is not a city for sightseeing per se, it is meant for strolling.

The afternoon we landed in Izmir was spent walking along Alsancak Streetdown into the Kordon district.  This beautiful seaside walkway was lined with café after café, many of which we ducked into for lunch or an invigorating Turkish coffee sweetened with mastic, a minty tree sap native to the Mediterranean.  As nightfall approached, we ventured to the Saat Kulesi, clock tower, which stands in front of the governor’s palace.  Constructed in 1901, it is one of the few survivors of the 1922 fire.  It is rumored to have been built to encourage Turks to adopt European timekeeping habits.

Izmir's Clock Tower

That night we stayed with a couple of the groom’s friends.  They were incredibly hospitable and went to every effort to make sure we were comfortable.  After sleeping in some, we woke up the next morning, dressed for the wedding, and set out for some more sightseeing.  For breakfast we had Izmir’s famous kumru followed by tea at the rooftop café of Asansör Tower.  From here the view of Izmir’s coast was spectacular.  Afterwards, we strolled through the markets and covered bazaars of the city center, stopping to drink Turkish coffee and Boza, a thick traditional Turkish drink made from corn and wheat.

The view from Asansör Tower.

Finally it was time to attend the wedding which was held in the city’s botanical fair grounds.  Turkish weddings are quite short.  The bride and groom walk in and sit at a large table in front of their friends and family.  They are accompanied by a state notary and two friends who serve as witnesses.  Quick remarks are made, the bride and groom promise to keep one another and sign their legal marriage document, quickly moving to the foyer.  There they are congratulated by wedding guests, bestowed with gifts, and pose for numerous pictures.  All this is followed several hours later by a reception in a local restaurant.  Guests partake in a series of meze platters (appetizers) which culminate in a main dish.  All the while there is singing, dancing, and sipping of Rakı, a traditional Turkish anise liquor that turns cloudy when mixed with water.  Despite its brevity, our time in Izmir was quite enjoyable.

Seth and I with the bride and groom. (I look so awkward because I am afraid to step on her dress.)

It appears Malatya will be having a very white Christmas.  Upon my turn, I have realized just how deep my Texas roots run—I am simply not made for snow.  My unsure-footedness has provided Seth and my students with several laughs.  However, I cannot blame them.  I am certain my hesitancy on ice is quite entertaining.  For Christmas I will be heading to Antakya (historic Antioch), and I could not be more excited.  My Christmas morning will be spent in what is said to be the earliest Christian church and the hub of Paul’s first missionary journey.  Many historians even believe it was dug by the hands of St. Peter himself.  Feel free to come join.

Merry Christmas.