This has been my first week in Africa without the routine of Camp LIFE and it has been quite an experience. I left Lusaka early Monday morning and headed north to a town called Luanshya to stay with my friend and professor’s family the Musoma’s. Before leaving my villa at Camp LIFE we made sure I had a proper send off by frying up some caterpillars for a little late night snack (a delicacy here in Zambia). I got two handfuls of these dried critters for 2500 kwatcha or about 75 cents – what a deal! This was just the beginning of a multitude of cultural experiences I would share with the Musoma family.
Monday afternoon and night I spent resting and viewing the restaurant/bar that Mr. Musoma owns. Tuesday I was invited to attend a funeral in the morning which lasted until the midafternoon. On the whole the service was not terribly different (Mass followed by burial), but there were a couple things that were entirely new experiences. First thing I noticed is that most of the Zambians were dressed in bright colors and were not ashamed to take pictures of any and everything all throughout the service. Secondly, there was a wide array of emotions expressed during the service and they were always expressed emphatically. Those who laughed did so heartily and those who cried practically wailed. There was no sense of “putting on a face.” You expressed exactly how you felt and there was a great amount of sincerity to the whole experience. There was also a stronger feeling of family and community than in American funerals. Between the death and the burial, close family members stayed at the house of the deceased, even if it meant sleeping on the floor. At the actual burial most family members help cover the casket with dirt once it is laid in the ground. The only conclusion I could draw from all of this was the fact that Zambians view death much differently than Americans. Yes, I am sure they are sad and grieving, but the entire process had the feeling of something that should be remembered and not forgotten. Most American funerals I have attended always seemed to be covered in this sense of darkness that is reflected in the dress and solemn faces.
On Wednesday Mr. Musoma took me to Da Gama School for the Disabled. This was a Franciscan project that was absolutely incredible. Driving up to the school you are given the feeling that it is a nice, quaint little building, but you have no idea what lies behind. This school sustains itself off not just a farm with pig and chicken raising and a garden, but an enormous banana plantation – mostly cared for by the sisters themselves. Any food they do not use in the cafeteria is sold at the market to generate revenue. Along with a dining hall, dormitories, and numerous classrooms, this school has a swimming pool, a physical therapy room, and a shop where the specially make prosthetic limbs for their students. To top it all off the place has this incredible sense of community. It is really amazing to see one legged boys pushing around their friends who are in wheelchairs, knowing that without each other neither could move very far. After visiting the school, Mr. Musoma asked me to play at his bar. So….Taylor had his first international concert. The crowd was not huge but they were very attentive and insistent on buying me drinks
Currently I am back in Lusaka waiting for my flight to Rwanda which leaves early tomorrow morning. On the way back from Luanshya today I went on a little safari and saw some giraffes, zebras, and only one hundred different kinds of antelope-looking-things. It was very enjoyable, especially taking in the scenery while riding through the crisp and cool African air. I am incredibly excited about the next leg of my journey to Rwanda, where among other things, I will be teaching English to women’s groups. Along with my excitement, however, I am experiencing a little bit of sadness knowing that I am leaving Zambia behind. It has been an incredible time that will truly be unforgettable. To close I would like to include a list of some things I’ve discovered about Zambia and its people:
1. Zambians are make an incredible effort to be the most hospitable people you will ever meet. This makes such a difference when you are traveling. It gets really stressful and lonely sometimes and having almost all natives go out of their way to talk to you or welcome you into their homes works wonders to brighten your day. This is something we need to remember back in the States, especially college students. We have a multitude of exchange students on our campuses who simply need friends. (A&M students get in touch with Matt Hickey if you want a solution to this problem.)
2. Zambians do everything with intense passion, especially praying. They shout, they scream, they shake, and they cover EVERYTHING in the blood of Jesus. Funny story. One of my last days of Camp LIFE this little seven year old boy named Wisdom came up to me with his hand raised. I naturally thought he wanted a five so I gave him one. He looked displeased and muttered something in Nyanga to a translator who told me, “no he wants to pray for you.” I was like alright thats sweet, this little boy wants to pray for me. So I got down on my knees (so he could reach my shoulders) and let Widsom and the rest of his group lay hands on me. Next thing I know this little boy is calling down all sorts of powers and just screaming away in my ear. Now I don’t know much Nyanga, but I was picking out words such as Jesus, Satan, and Uncle Taylor. I was being violently shaken the whole time and periodically hit on the head. I’m sure any oppressions that may have been over me were quickly scared away.
3. Zambians eat everything with their hands. It’s fun.
4. Toilet paper comes in the normal white, but if you want to get gender specific there is also pink and blue.
5. And the doozie…gas here is about $9 a gallon, so I don’t want to hear anymore crying about this 4 dollar business.
I love you all,
Taylor