Originally I had planned on giving an update after each city visited in Ireland. However, as the Fates of Travel would have it, I was too busy sightseeing to slow down long enough to write. In the course of a week I probably logged twenty miles of walking on my boots.
My first stop was Belfast, Northern Ireland. I stayed with a lovely couchsurfing host named Niamh (pronounced Neeve). She truly made me feel at home with her hospitality. I arrived, unfortunately, on a bank holiday when most of the government buildings were closed. I used the first day to visit the Ulster Museum, Botanical Gardens, and then to venture down Shankill road to see the loyalist murals from The Troubles, the time period when paramilitary Catholic republicans clashed with Protestant loyalists who wished to stay under the rule of the Crown. Many of the more gruesome and inflammatory murals have been painted over with images that portray a more positive message.
- “Shankill Protestant Boys”
That night Niamh invited her family over and cooked a splendid meal. The group was very friendly and curious about my travels. Her father told the funniest stories that required my fullest attention for they were told very quickly and in a thick northern Irish accent.
Day two in Belfast was my time to hit all the stops I missed due to the holiday. On the long walk up from Niamh’s house, I visited Queen’s College. That afternoon, I took an hour long tour of City Hall and walked through the Linen Hall Library’s exhibit on propaganda from The Troubles. My stomach was rumbling with hunger after all the walking so I ducked into a pub for a wonderful bowl of Irish stew and a Smithwicks before heading home.
The following morning I walked into town and caught a bus to Carlingford, Irelandwhere my friend Ali lives. I met Ali (can you all guess?) while studying in Mexico. Carlingford, her home town, is absolutely breathtaking. This quaint, medieval village sits on the coast and is surrounded by modest peaks. It is home to King John’s Castle, constructed in the early 13th century.
First thing Ali and I did is climb up to the saddle of the nearest hill for a scenic view of the surrounding area. We then strolled through town before driving around to meet some of Ali’s friends and family. Unfortunately Ali had to work that night because her sister was ill and needed someone to fill in for her. I simply took an evening stroll and then at nightfall went to her restaurant where I was served delicious sea food and chatted with DJ, the chilled out bartender.
- Carlingford from above.
The following morning Ali drove us both down to Dublin to meet up with our mutual friend Ciara. Ciara just started teaching at a Montessori school in Dublin, but she had the afternoon off to spend with us. We spent some time catching up at Ciara’s house and then drove out to the Botanic Gardens followed by a long hike downtown where we crossed the river Liffey and viewed Christ Church Cathedral, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and Trinity College. On the way home we stopped by the apartment of Steve and James to chat.
The next morning I found my way onto the proper bus for heading into town. I strolled across the Ha’penny Bridge into Temple Bar, several city blocks which have maintained their original medieval design including many cobblestones. Soon thereafter I walked to the western part of the city to visit the Guinness Storehouse Brewery, which is by far the most difficult place to find. However, those who do make it to its blackened gates are greatly rewarded. The tour itself was self-guided, and therefore, not spectacular. The top floor, known as the Gravity Bar, is worth the entry fee alone. It overlooks all of Dublin and its surrounding hills. While taking in the expansive city view, each visitor is awarded a “complementary” pint of Guinness. My bartender was especially creative and left a little design in the head.
- Guinness
That afternoon I met up with Ciara to walk through the Dublinia Museum attached to Christ Church Cathedral. This exhibit featured the Viking History of Dublin and was very engaging. Afterward we went to the Jameson Distillery Tour, one of the few Dublin must-sees that Ciara had not been to. The tour was much more informative than Guinness and led by a witty tour guide. I was selected as one of the lucky few “whiskey tasters”. At the end of the tour I was trained on how to be a connoisseur of whiskey. I was even given a certificate to mark my achievement. (Mom and dad must be so proud).
The following morning we woke up and drove out to Glendalough, a valley located in the Wicklow Mountains. On the grounds there is an ancient monastery from the early 12th century. Surrounding the ancient ruins is a community cemetary which has tombstones from the mid-1700s. The walking trails in the area are very peaceful and lead to a pristine lake.
- Cemetary at Glendalough
Lake at Glendalough
That night we cooked at Ciara and Paul’s place with a slew of friends for a final hurrah. I woke up early this morning and Ciara was kind enough to see me to the bus stop. Now, I am back in London. freshly showered and with clean clothes that are neatly packed back into my suitcase. Tomorrow morning I depart for Turkey. We will complete a ten day orientation that ends September 15th at which point we will venture to our respective universities.
Miss you all!
Taylor, Ali, Ciara, and Ali's Shoe.
