Friends and Family, I sincerely apologize for not having written in so long. I can assure you that it is not without excuse. The past several weeks, school has picked up quite substantially and at the same time I received several opportunities to travel. Needless to say, I have not written in awhile and I have much to update you on.
All of you will be happy to know that the bus companies took their last stab at me, adding just another grievance to my long list of complaints against Latin American buses. Interestingly enough, however, this instance was not so much the fault of the bus company as it was the bankrupt financial system we have created in the United States. As many of you know, in a hasty attempt to salvage the economy several weeks ago, our Congress voted to inject several hundred billion dollars of our taxes to save a group of big name lending corporations (who interestingly enough, despite their severe crisis, still manage to heavily fund both candidates’ political campaigns…interesting). I wonder where our politicians’ loyalties lay?
Nonetheless, these bail-outs (including over a trillion dollars of money the FED pulled out of thin air) temporarily boosted the value of the dollar (though rest assured if we continue such credit creation the dollar will collapse). Conveniently, the bus company decided to use this opportunity to refund the pesos I had spent trying to reserve bus tickets online, at a time when the peso was stronger compared to the dollar. Therefore, when my money was refunded and exchanged I was shorted about thirty dollars. And no, I do not even have the energy to call and complain.
Two weeks ago we were given a holiday for the Mexican celebration of Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). This holiday falls around the same time as Halloween but is a distinctly different tradition rooted in indigenous religious beliefs. The theory is that on this particular day the spirits of ancestors passed are given the opportunity to return to Earth and spend time with their relatives. Though it is a dying custom, many Mexican families still create altars that honor their deceased relatives and serve to “guide the spirits” back to their home. The altars can be found both in homes and around cemeteries and are absolutely beautiful.
Unfortunately, I was unable to experience much of the customs and traditions surrounding Día de los Muertos. A group of friends and I traveled to Guadalajara, Jalisco, an extremely urban area where Día de los Muertos is practically dead. In all honesty I do not have much to say about this trip. The city is quite enormous, but despite it size, it has surprisingly little to offer other than some parties. Traveling to party is not really my style, however. I find the cultural historical sites to be much more interesting.
This past weekend, in the midst of studying for several tests and writing several papers, I decided to take a camping trip up to Popocatépetl, the active volcano in Cholula. The time we actually spent camping, though not very long, was absolutely wonderful. We had a campfire, my guitar, some brews, friends, and were surrounded by the beautiful wilderness – basically my favorite pastime. Not surprisingly, I cannot say that the trip to and from the mountain were as pleasant as actually camping.
Originally I was told we would be taken to the volcano by a fellow Mexican who had rented a van. I do not know if I mistranslated what I was told or if I simply did not realize that “van” in Spanish actually means, “oh yes, we are going to cram all eight of you and your luggage in the back of a pickup for the hour and a half ride to the mountains.” Keep in mind that during this time, the sun was slowly setting and we were gradually gaining altitude, all of which translated to a rapid drop in temperature. Fortunately at the time none of this mattered much to me. We were going camping and I was excited.
The ride home was equally as entertaining (in retrospect of course). Upon arriving to the volcano we found a small hostal to stay in. The gentleman who owned the cabañas, who we called “Don” (the Mexican way of saying “sir”), seemed very amiable and told us we could all stay in the same condo. Checkout was at 12 o’clock the following day. Cool.
What we did not realize was that “Don” was an absolute drunk who enjoyed getting up very early Sunday morning to spend the whole day throwin ‘em back. What we also did not realize is that he had a drinking date with some of his buddies at 11 a.m. the next morning. So at about 10 a.m. he was telling us we needed to leave. When we complained about the checkout time, good ol’ Don proceeded to create a bus schedule from thin air, telling us that we had to leave now to catch the only bus leaving this afternoon back to Cholula. If we did not go now, we would have to wait until four or five. Not knowing any different we took his advice.
So the Don flagged down a passing pickup, and we jumped in the back thinking we were heading to the bus station to make our way home. But oh no, the Don had other plans. He wanted to show us this park, where he would proceed to drink about four beers at 11 a.m. while insisting that we wait for him to travel back to Cholula. So we waited. At about 11:30 the Don ordered two brewskies to go and we began walking to the bus stop, which turned out to be the corner of dirt road in the middle of the mountains.
As soon as we arrived at the “station” the Don began babbling on about this one time when he had to wait three hours in the rain for a bus because, as he put it, they come quite sporadically. By this time I was quite frustrated and the closest I’ve ever been to actually physically assaulting another human being. Thinking maybe this time would be different, we waited…
An hour and a half later (and another three beers for the Don) we decided to flag down a pickup and ask for a ride to another bus station where buses came by every twenty minutes. The family thankfully agreed and actually ended up bringing us all the way back to Cholula. The whole time I kept thinking of the irony of the situation: In Texas we always laugh at the Mexicans who cram into cars and the back of pickups to drive around. Here I am in Mexico with a group of foreigners, bumming rides off of locals and riding in the back of pickups.
On a sadder note, my fellow foreign roommate from London, Simon, was recently expelled indefinitely from the University. He was with another Mexican student on campus past curfew when they were caught by security just as the Mexican had whipped out a joint and was about to smoke. They ran. They were caught. Their rooms were searched. Ect. My suitemate actually had neither drugs nor paraphernalia on him. Needless to say, they were both tried together and punished with expulsion from the university the following day.
Simon went through a process of appeal, to protest how his case was handled and the equal punishments they were given for different crimes. Unfortunately, students at this University do not have much voice and there is little structure to bring grievance against what I consider to be a rather totalitarian administration. You should hear the rules we have in the dorms…
But yah, long story short. They kicked him out, canceled his visa, therefore, forcing him to leave the country, called his university back home, and are refusing to hear his case again. All for being caught after curfew with a person who had drugs on him. Oh, Mexican justice.
Teaching has been going really well. We have moved beyond our numbers unit to basic conversation structures. With this transition we have also retired the Jack Johnson song, but never fear, we have introduced “Hello, Goodbye” by the Beatles to make up for it. The students are really enjoying the song and the new unit. It’s sad to think that I will be done with teaching in two short weeks. It’s been an enjoyable, but incredibly challenging experience.
This weekend, in two hours actually, I am taking a trip with a group of friends to Querétero and San Miguel de Allende. We will be staying in the house, and later the ranch, of one of my Mexican friends. I’m really looking forward to the trip. I hear amazing things about both cities.
I’m sorry this was so long. I had quite a lot of updates but I tried my best to be succinct. Always feel free to shoot me an email or call me on Skype. Love and miss you guys.
Taylor