An Open Letter to my Students

Dear Students,

Today I am leaving Malatya.  Saying goodbye is never fun or easy, especially when you are leaving students as respectful and appreciative as those in Turkey.  For the past several weeks we have spent much quality time together.  We have shared tea and Turkish coffee in the city center, breakfast in your homes, as well as mantı, sarma, and anneler ve kizleri on top of Inonu Mountain.  When we weren’t busy attending the Spring Festival concerts, we even made a few road trips around Turkey.  I especially enjoyed the beautiful canyon and waterfall in Darende as well as the rich history of Diyarbakir, Batman, Midyat, and Mardin.

In the process of spending so much time with you, I came to the realization that many of you actually speak decent English—at least enough to occupy conversation for an entire road trip.  This starkly contrasts the beginning of the year when you could hardly complete fill-in-the-blank notes to the lyrics of the Beatles’ “Hello, Goodbye”.  Despite this songs simple words and clear pronunciation, the only response I could get out of you were eyes wide with confusion and perhaps a little fear.

Undoubtedly, you have made significant progress in your speaking and listening abilities this year.  In fact, no more than three weeks ago, each of you participated in a classroom debate over complex topics such as the efficacy of the death penalty and whether or not countries should provide free university education.  Not only were your positions well researched and informative, but your presentation skills were impressive and your pronunciation clear.

Reflecting back on such accomplishments, I am left with the feeling of immense pride in you.  You made my transition from math to English teaching both exciting and intellectually stimulating.  Your respect and hard work gave me the opportunity to further develop my teaching abilities, implementing more critical thinking and project based learning into my classroom.

People often refer to teaching as thankless job.  However, in Turkey, the students truly challenge this assertion.  These past several weeks you have inundated me with words of appreciation and affirmation.  Whether expressed with an honorary picnic, a small gift, or a sad goodbye, the sincerity of your thankfulness is always clear.

I am pleased to know that I have had an impact here in Turkey, but you should know that you have made a difference in my life as well.  You have excelled in showing me that Turkish people are some of the most hospitable in the world.  Furthermore, you have proven to me that, despite what my media may say, tolerance and love are central tenants of the true Islamic faith and are lived by many of you each and every day.

So, to all my wonderful students – thank you for your energy, inquisitiveness, courage, and appreciation.  Thank you for rising to every challenge I set before you.  Most of all, thank you for welcoming me into your country and allowing me to be a part of your lives, even if it was for only a short time.  I am walking away from this year with valuable friendships that I hope will continue through the years.  May your futures be filled with joy, excitement, and adventure.

Your teacher and friend,

Taylor

Ghostly Ruins

Several months ago, as winter settled-in upon Malatya, I used the powers of Kindle to order Nobel-laureate Orhan Pamuk’s novel Snow.  Snow takes place in Kars, a city in far eastern Anatolia known for its rich history and severe winters.  The story told by Pamuk highlights Turkey’s diverse political landscape and the conflicts that arise in a society which is influenced by both political Islam and secular democracy.

While the story was undoubtedly intriguing, I found Pamuk’s description of Kars to be even more fascinating.  Throughout history, this small city has exchanged hands between Armenia, the Byzantine Empire, the Seljuk Empire, the Ottoman Empire, and Russia.  This history can still be seen in the diverse architecture that dots the city.  Armenian churches stand next to Ottoman mosques.  Further down the road you can see government buildings that have a distinctly Russian flare.

A view of Kars from the hilltop castle. You can see the Church of the 12 Apostles (10th Century) right next to an Ottoman style mosque.

As seen by the architecture, the Fetihye mosque was previously an Eastern Orthodox Church constructed by the Russians in the late 19th century.

In addition, Kars lies about 30 kilometers to the west of some of the most incredible ruins I have seen in Turkey, the ancient city of Ani.  Called the “City of 1001 Churches”, this site once served as the capital of medieval Armenia.  With a population of as many as 200,000 people, it rivaled some of the greatest cities of its day including Constantinople and Cairo.  Now, however, due to a political grudge, Ani has fallen into disrepair and appears a harrowing ghost town.

The Church of the Holy Redeemer dates to 1035 B.C.E. It is perhaps the most striking structure in Ani because of its half-collapsed dome which occurred during a thunderstorm in 1955. Rumor has it that it was struck by lightening.

Church of the Holy Mother of God was constructed around 980 B.C.E. Very impressive for its time.

The Araks River separates modern day Turkey and Armenia. The ruined bridge seen in this picture was a transit point for the Silk Road.

The mosque of Minuchir was built in 1076 and is expected to be one of the oldest mosques in Anatolia. The minaret is actually the oldest piece of the mosque still intact. My friend Clayton and I climbed all the way to the top, which required feeling our way up 96 steps through frequent spells of complete darkness. It was terrifying.

Fairy Chimneys and Underground Cities

The last weekend in March I ventured to a part of central Anatolia that has been known for centuries as Cappadocia (or Kapadokya).  This collection of cities and villages offers some of the most unique landscape in the world.  Millions of years ago, the many volcanoes surrounding the area simultaneously erupted covering hundreds of square miles in volcanic dust.  Since this time, the winds and rains have gradually eroded the soft volcanic rock into formations that can only be described as otherworldly.

 

Uçisar Caste is formed out of the tall rock formation on the right.

A tree adorned with "evil eyes" sits on the edge of Pigeon Valley.

Many peoples throughout history have been drawn to this location.  In the second century B.C., the Hittites settled in this region and used the soft volcanic soil to their advantage.  Not only did it provide for good farming, but the Hittites were also able to construct several extensive underground cities that they used for shelter when enemies approached.  The city I visited, Derinkuyu (deep well), is twelve stories deep in its current, partially excavated state—although much of this was added by Byzantines and early Christians.  Some archeologist believe that there may be as many as twenty stories to this extensive city and an underground tunnel, 9 kilometers long, which connects it to another nearby underground city.

 

Passageway in Derinkuyu underground city.

In addition to the cities, Cappadocia is home to many breathtaking valleys which the early Christians used to conceal themselves from their many enemies.  The soft volcanic rock and interesting “fairy chimney” formations made for good housing.  As you walk along the Göreme Valley, Pigeon Valley, and Ihlara Valley, you can still discover many houses, churches, and monasteries which were carved right into the rock.

 

Rock monastery in Göreme Valley.

This is a fresco on the ceiling of a cave church in the Ihlara Valley. It pictures a very Turkish version of the three wise men. (Notice how they look like whirling dervishes).

Today Cappadocia is home to many tourists and a university which three very lucky ETAs got as their placement region.  Perhaps one of the most popular activities for people passing through the area is to take a hot air balloon ride.  While my dreadful fear of heights and frugal travel practices kept me from taking a ride (who can afford $200 an hour?), I was able to get up early one morning and capture some pictures of the beautiful sight.

A hot air balloon takes off in the early morning.

Hot air balloons over Gül Valley.